The brief
A suit or tailored piece worn like armour, open, unbuttoned, completely their own. Not dressed up. Dressed.
Power sits in the tailoring itself, structure doing more work than expression. The suit or coat should look like it belongs to you rather than something put on for the day. Stand with weight even and let the stillness carry it.
- Mood
- Assured, sharp, composed
- Silhouette
- Strong shoulder, long line
- Palette
- Black, charcoal, deep tones
- Fabric
- Wool, crepe, gabardine
- Key piece
- A perfectly cut suit or blazer
- Suggested season
- Autumn/Winter
- Good for
- suit, blazer, tailoring, black, sharp, structure
Two ways to wear it
Angular
- A well-cut suit or blazer worn open, no shirt underneath, a deep V doing the work
- Trousers cut from the same fabric, so the line reads as one continuous silhouette
- Jewellery worn with the same ease as the suit, a chain or pendant, not added on as an afterthought
Soft
- A fitted turtleneck or fine knit under the tailoring, closed rather than open, quieter power
- A structured coat or blazer layered over the top, worn loose across the shoulders
- Straight or tapered trousers that keep the silhouette clean without any hard edges
What makes it work
- A suit or blazer with a strong shoulder and a precise fit
- Darker tones: black, charcoal, deep navy, chocolate, oxblood
- The jacket worn open or with nothing underneath for edge
- Matching trousers so the line runs unbroken
- Minimal jewellery and a sharp shoe or boot
What breaks it
- A loose or boxy fit that swallows the frame
- Shiny cheap suiting that catches light unevenly
- Office styling: a tie, a pastel shirt, a work bag
- Creases across the jacket from sitting on the way
The outfit
Top
- A well cut blazer worn open with nothing underneath
- A fitted turtleneck or fine knit under the jacket for a softer version
- A crisp shirt buttoned to the top with no tie
- A structured waistcoat worn alone
- A waistcoat worn with nothing underneath
- A fine rib knit tucked in, which softens the shoulder line
- An open white shirt, oversized, untucked at the back
Legs
- Trousers cut from the same fabric as the jacket so the line runs unbroken
- Wide leg tailored trousers with a sharp crease
- A matching tailored mini skirt if you want to break the formality
- A pencil skirt with the same jacket, which changes the era completely
- Trousers deliberately too long, breaking over the shoe
Footwear
- Square toe boots or a sleek loafer
- A pointed heel in black or oxblood
- A loafer with a bare ankle
- A knee boot under wide trousers, only the toe showing
Hair and makeup
Hair
- Sharp and severe, slicked back or tucked away
- A sleek low ponytail that keeps the neckline clean
- A low, tight chignon, which suits a strong shoulder
- Cropped or slicked flat, so the tailoring holds the shape, not the hair
Makeup
Matte Precision
A flawless matte base, defined brow and muted lip, polished and quiet
Sharp Contour
Strong definition under the cheekbones to match the tailoring's lines
Bare and Severe
No colour anywhere, just clean skin and a strong brow
Red Mouth
Nothing Else, the only softness against hard tailoring
Finishing touches
Jewellery
- A slim silver or gold chain at the collarbone
- A signet ring or one strong ring
- A classic watch
- Cufflinks, which almost nobody uses and instantly reads considered
- A tie or a loosened silk scarf at the collar, if you want the borrowed-menswear reference
- A single heavy ring rather than several fine ones
Other Accessories
- Leather gloves
- A structured briefcase or document bag
- A leather document case or portfolio, carried rather than worn
- Round or angular metal-framed glasses
Take it further
For when you want to go all out, pull out every stop and make it yours.
- 01Wear an oversized men's suit two sizes up, belted at the waist, sleeves pushed back
- 02Go full three piece with a waistcoat and nothing underneath the jacket
- 03Tailor in an unexpected fabric: a velvet suit, a leather suit, a pinstripe in a bright colour
- 04Wear a full suit with trainers and let the contrast be the whole idea
- 05Try tailoring in an unexpected colour: cream, chocolate, forest green, rather than black
If you like this, try these
Bring this look to your session, or see all 21 styles